Emersed Plants

Cryptocoryne Lingua

I purchased this plant before I left for Australia since I hadn’t seen it for sale before in my local fish shops, unfortunately I couldn’t exactly take many pictures since I purchased it 2 days before I left but I will have my father send me some updated pictures as the plant should be adapted to emersed conditions by now.

Cryptocoryne Lingua is native to Sarawak in Borneo and the chromosome numbers are 2N = 36 as per “The Crypt Pages”

http://crypts.home.xs4all.nl/Cryptocoryne/Gallery/lin/lin.html

I’m currently keeping the plant under normal shop light T5’s with two 6700k bulbs and two 3000k bulbs – I was previously using the “colourmax” spectrum bulb which come off as a pink colour however they kept burning out and I didn’t have time to buy new bulbs.

I apologize for the quality and lack of photos but I promise to do an update in order to show the new growth and how they have adapted.

Conditions
– Two 6700k T5 bulbs
– Two 3000k T5 bulbs
– Softer water – slightly acidic 6.5-6.8
– Homemade substrate as mentioned in other previous posts
– 10 hour lighting period

DCIM100GOPROGOPR2164. DCIM100GOPROGOPR2162. DCIM100GOPROGOPR2161.

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Cryptocoryne X Purpurea Ridley Nothovar. Purpurea ‘Kota Tingga’

This is by far probably the rarest Cryptocoryne I own, especially considering they have completely destroyed it’s natural habitat due to palm oil plantations being put up.  I really hope I can grow this one and propagate it so it can be spread to fellow hobbyists; here is a link for further information and pictures of the plant :

http://images.aquaria.net/plants/Cryptocoryne/p/PUR/PUR/Kota_Tingga/
http://crypts.home.xs4all.nl/Cryptocoryne/Gallery/pur/pur.html

Since I literally just got this plant it still needs to adjust to it’s new conditions, I’ll be keeping it in my emersed tank like many other Cryptocoryne’s I own.

Lighting- Coralife T5NO Dual Bulb – 6700k and rosette bulb – Lights are on for 10 hours. 
PH- 7.5
Substrate- Homemade substrate mix, cow manure, sheep manure, worm castings, natural red clay, and cheap topsoil.

 

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Cryptocoryne Cordata Var. Siamensis ‘Rosanervig’ Emersed

In the past 6 months I’ve had my Cryptocoryne Cordata ‘Rosanervig’ send 8 runners which has allowed me to experiment with it’s growing conditions. Up to date I’ve kept this plant submersed in medium light with CO2, E.I dosing and a very nutrient rich substrate but because of the excess amount of plants I have I decided to try some emersed in low light.

Most of the plants are still adapting to emersed conditions but it’s interesting to see the different leaf formations/patterns all within one plant; it’s easy to see now how this plant can be mistaken for another if grown improperly. I personally do not have a large enough tank at the moment to keep this plant under it’s proper conditions which is why I have it under medium light & it isn’t displaying it’s veins.

From my previous research and experimentation with this plant I’ve found that keeping it light conditions under 20-30 PAR really bring out the veins, to increase the pink coloration I’ve found it to be a matter of increasing phosphates, contradictory to other experts advice.

Enjoy the pictures, and as you will see in them the Cryptocoryne Cordata ‘Rosanervig’ is truly a beautiful plant when it’s veins are displayed.

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As you can see I have many to experiment with in emersed conditions 🙂

TorontoPlantMan
Kirk Gibson

Cryptocoryne Wendtii ‘Mi Oya’ Spathe Update 5

When I woke up this morning and checked on my plants I was super surprised to see the spathe open and taller then it previously was just yesterday when I snapped a picture of both the spathe’s forming. Ive yet to get a picture of the spathe any more open then this as last time it got this far it died shortly after. I’m trying to get a time-lapse camera so I can shoot a time lapse of the spathe opening/closing on the smaller spathe that is developing.

If you want to know how I am keeping this plant and all other necessary information stay tuned for a detailed write up on keeping emersed Cryptocoryne’s and plants in general.

Enjoy the pictures

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Cryptocoryne Wendtii ‘Mi Oya’ Spathe Update 4

Here is the progress of the spathe forming on my Cryptocoryne Wendtii ‘Mi Oya’, if you look closely there is actually two spathes forming. I was surprised to see this plant flower again right after it just finished flowering, let alone send two spathes up this time, hopefully I can fertilize the plant & get a seed pod; it is my ultimate goal to try and grow a Cryptocoryne from Seed.

I will update with more pictures as the second spathe isn’t large enough yet for me to properly focus on with just a little point and shoot.

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Ammania Sp. Bonsai AKA True Rotala Indica – Tropica 1-2 Grow Update 1

Almost exactly one month ago I first purchased a tub of Ammania Sp. Bonsai from Tropica’s 1-2 Grow tissue culture plants and planted 103 stems in 4 different set ups. Roughly two weeks into it I began to develop a white fuzz on my plants in the humidity domes (I suspect the humidity was too high) and this white fuzz managed to completely destroy the Ammania Sp. Bonsai that I had in there.

Me trying to act without thinking properly tried to salvage the remaining stems & put them into another enclosure with Ammania Sp. Bonsai that was growing great, only to then kill off my remaining supply of everything in that set up as well. It looks as if I have transferred the “disease’ into that tank now also which is a huge pain in the butt because I am now left with only one set up containing the Ammania Sp. Bonsai with roughly 20 stems +/- a few.

I have this plant under four 36” T5 fixtures with two 6700k bulbs and two rosette bulbs, as well as a homemade substrate previously mentioned in my other write ups.

Here are some pictures of the new growth so far
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Cryptocoryne Wendtii ‘Mi Oya’ Spathe Update 2

It’s been approximately one month and two days since I first saw the Spathe developing on my Cryptocoryne Wendtii ‘Mi Oya’ & this morning it finally partially opened. I watched it every hour for the entire day and it didn’t appear to open any further so hopefully by the morning it will be fully open. I at least now know a rough time frame of how long it takes for the spathe to fully develop and open so I can now properly plan when to take pictures in the future.

The next update will show the spathe fully open, stay tuned!
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Ammania Sp. Bonsai AKA True Rotala Indica – Tropica 1-2 Grow

I’ve always been hesitant with tissue culture plants ever since I had a bad experience with tissue cultured Pogostemon Helferi, but when I saw this plant for sale at a well known store downtown Toronto I had to take the chance.

Here in Canada Ammania Sp. Bonsai is one of those plants you RARELY see, and when you do people charge anywhere from $5-10 a stem, this made the little $9.99 tub of Tropica’s 1-2 grow even that much more attractive.

Quickly after getting home I prepared all my cutting tools, a small bowl of water, a mister to keep the plants moist, and a couple of old tissue culture pots I had from previous purchases to keep the stems in once cut. Once I began working on the Ammania Sp. Bonsai I was super impressed by the root growth on it, although it was a slow and tedious process which took a little over 1 hour. I managed to salvage 103 stems ranging in size from 1/4 inch-2 inches and then distributed them throughout various humidity domes and emersed planted tanks in order to experiment with it’s growing conditions.

I will continue to add pictures as the stems develop and look more so like the Ammania Sp. Bonsai we’ve come to know and love.

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Cryptocoryne Pontederiifolia

Crytpcoryne Pontederiifolia is a great starter Cryptocoryne and contains an even prettier yellow inflorescence. Under different water and lighting parameters C. Pontederiifolia will display a variety of colours and leaf forms from deep green to pink, bullate leaves to smooth, and short plants to tall plants. Here are two examples of C. Pontederiifolia in which I keep in two completely different conditions.

Condition 1
– Four 36″ T5 bulbs with two 6700k bulbs and two colourmax (pink) bulbs.
– PH 8.2+ HARD water
– Homemade substrate mix
– 12 hour lighting period
– Kept in 10 gallon emersed tank with air stone
Results – Under these conditions C. Pontederiifolia displayed it’s newer leaves as pink and and stayed quite small. No signs of any deficiencies what so ever though.

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Condition 2
– Two 23 watt 6700k CFL bulbs
– One 18 watt ZooMed plant bulb (pink)
– Neutral water PH 7.5
– MGOCPS substrate (Not a fan due to potential gnats and other unwanted bugs hatching, wouldn’t use again)
– 10 hour lighting period
– Kept in high humidity dome+tray with no air stone or water circulation.
Results – Under these conditions C. Pontederiifolia never displayed any pink in comparison to the other specimens kept in “Condition 1”. The new growth was always green and the green intensifies as the plant matures. Propagation is quite quick via runners sent from the mother plant.

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Successfully growing Glossostigma Elatinoides Emersed

In my opinion, one of the biggest factors for lush and compact growth in growing Glossostigma Elatinoides emersed is the substrate & lighting in which you choose. I’ve grown this plant under four completely different parameters in terms of lighting and water parameters but I kept the substrate the same in all four specimens. The result’s were as follows…

Experiment 1 (Success)
– Four 36″ T5’s with 3000k spectrum bulbs (Wrong spectrum for plants)
– Homemade substrate mix
– PH 8.2+
– Lights on for 12 hours a day
– RESULTS= Glosso grew, but at a particularly slow rate, not sending runners as fast as expected. New growth was also not as “deep” of a green as it should have been. All in all the plant was still healthy, just not as vibrant as it should have been.

Experiment 2 (Success) (Same as Experiment 1 except for PH)
– Four 36″ T5’s with 3000k spectrum bulbs (Wrong spectrum for plants)
– Homemade substrate mix
– PH 6.5
– Lights on for 12 hours a day
– RESULTS= After dropping the PH significantly over the course of a week via almond leaves and removing the coral which creates such a high PH, the glossostigma didn’t seem to grow any different than normal over the course of one week. I left the PH at 6.5 for the remainder for the month (2 weeks) and the Glosso looked like this after…



Experiment 3 (Success)
– Four 36″ T5’s with two 6700k bulbs and two rosette “colourmax” bulbs. (NOW we have the right bulb spectrum for plant growth)
– Homemade substrate mix
– PH 8.2+ (I brought the PH back up to hard water as I was keeping the Glosso with other hard water plants)
– Lights on for 12 hours a day
– RESULTS= After successfully growing the first carpet of Glossostigma under the 3000k bulbs and different water parameters, I wanted to start over and now try this experiment with the right bulbs. After ripping out the Glossostigma carpet completely, only leaving a few nodes here are the results…


Plant growth was far more lush, compact, spread faster, and overall healthier.

Experiment 4 (Success)
 Two 23 Watt 6700k CFL’s, One 18 watt T8 ZooMed Plant bulb.
– PH 7.5
– Homemade substrate mix
– Lights on for 10 hours per day
– RESULTS= Lush and compact growth, very similar to experiment 3. PH didn’t seem to have any effect on the plant, as it even managed to flower a few weeks after.


In conclusion, Glossostigma Elatinoides is one of those plants that seems to love higher light, the higher the light the greener and more compact the plant will become. The lower the light and further away from the plant spectrum, the taller and not as lush growth will appear. Although this is considered one of the more advanced plants for submersed growth, Glossostigma Elatinoides grows under many different conditions emersed and is highly adaptable. One of my favourite parts of having an emersed set up is that when your submersed cultivation isn’t going as well as you planned, you can always go back to your emersed specimens to try again as opposed to having to purchase more at your local fish store.